Lots of things have changed over the past 4 months. I went from traveling and competing monthly to not moving at all and not being able to go to the beach. Now, we are able to surf at designated times. For me though it means more physical training out of the water to still be in shape for when they do open up the beaches fully. During my time at home I work out a lot more. I find new workouts and learn new tricks on the skateboard.
Right now we only get to surf during specific times, which for us surfers is a start to getting back in the water again. At one point beaches had closed completely, and that time had made me realize how much I love surfing and why it is so important to me. When I got back in the water, I valued it much more. I don’t think, at least right now, that the beaches are going to open any time soon. I hope I’m wrong but that looks the most accurate at these times. But – we still get to surf, and for me that is the most that I can ask for right now. And the best way to get back to surfing, is to get used to the waves again and go back everyday.
I have been so desperate to surf since everything started because the waves were big and fun but all the beaches got shut down when the waves got good. There, I learned to respect what was happening and not sneak out when there was a chance. So to be honest, even now that the beaches are open at designated times I have still been working out a lot because three hours of surfing isn’t enough to keep me in competition ready shape. I am excited to see how the culture of the contest will change in Costa Rica and internationally from what it was before, and now, after everything that has happened this past year.